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When one thinks of hubs for great, wood-fire pizza—from Naples, Italy to Brooklyn, New York—St. Louis, Missouri isn’t always the first city that comes to mind. But nestled along the Mississippi River, the Gateway City has quietly invented one of the most distinct pizza styles in America, using a smokey Provel cheese to set itself apart from the pack. Justin Bazdarich of Speedy Romeo has made it his mission to bring the gospel of St. Louis-style pizza to NYC.

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